Mary, Turkmenistan

Sorry for stealing the title Dan!

6 more participants joined our tour – they arrived just as we were getting ready to catch our early flight to Mary in eastern Turkmenistan. We are on our way to the massive UNESCO World Heritage archaeological site of Merv, a series of 5 ancient cities that were created over a 2500 year period that was a major stop on the Silk Road.

While the history is far too long and complex to explain, the appended version includes being conquered by Alexander the Great and renamed Alexandria Margiana; the city was expanded and renamed Antiochia Margiana. The larger city of Sultan Kala was created after the introduction of Islam during the 7^th century Arab invasion. Some believe that this is the setting where Scheherazade wove her tales of 1001 Nights. After refusing to supply protection money and young girls to the Mongols, the city was razed and its 300,000 inhabitants were slaughtered by Genghis Khan’s #1 son in 1221.

I wandered the ruins with theme of Yo-yo Ma’s Silk Road Project echoing through my brain.

For me, the highlight of the day was climbing the wall of the original city and realizing that Alexander the Great had most likely walked around the city’s fortifying walls and I was literally walking in his footsteps.

Heading back to Mary, we were exposed to the legendary Turkmen friendliness and hospitality. The people at the Sadakaňyz Kabul Bolsum, a Suffi Islamic center, were unbelievably kind and gracious. They seemed genuinely pleased to see us and were happy to pose for pictures. We were treated to mind-blowingly yummy lamb pulao made in a huge wok over an open flame that was created through a Dhabihah religious offering.

The afternoon was spent at the rather kitschy Natural History and Ethnology Museum of Mary and a quick stop at a beautifully preserved Kozak Russian Orthodox church.

We arrived early for dinner. The group was so tired that we stretched out on banquettes and had a nap for an hour. That was a Toto first!

It was quite the day considering that we don’t officially starting the trip until tomorrow!