Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan’s capital, Ashgabat is hands down the oddest city that I have ever visited. After a massive earthquake in 1948, the city was rebuilt in typical Soviet style: large, heavy, functional grey concrete buildings. With the collapse of the Soviet Union in the early 1990’s, free elections were held with one candidate and Turkmenbashi’s reign began. His vision for the country was complete and far reaching. He centralized universities and hospitals to Ashgabat. He wrote Ruhnama, a bible for the Turkmen people. All dissent was eliminated. From what I have read, journalists don’t need to worry about the facts, the government will supply the Truth. Smoking was banned outdoors and in all public places after Turkmenbaṣi quit. He tore down the Soviet buildings to create a utopia created from shining white marble and space age Soviet inspired architecture. His picture was everywhere, on buildings, hotel lobbies, in taxis…. While numerous monuments demonstrated his contributions, the golden statue on top of the tallest monument that rotated so the he always faced the sun underlined the fact that he had earned the title, Turkmenbaṣi the Great.

Some of Turkmenbaṣi policies and architectural projects were reversed by his successor, Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov. However, he has taken a page from the book of the great one. Monuments, museums and his ever present image show demonstrate dedication to the Turkmens’ current Fearless Leader.