Cholpon Ata, Kyrgyzstan

There were a few minor mishaps during our bus ride to Lake Issy-Kul. A miscommunication at the hotel resulted in someone’s medication bag having to be taxied to our bus – it gave us a chance to get up-close and personal with the suburbs of Bishkek. Dan got a lesson in the proper use of squat toilets and the gas station attendant got a chance to practice his fishing skill by pulling Dan’s wallet out of the ‘hole’. You can read all the gory details on Dan’s blog entry: Down in the Dumps: Fishing for Fiscal Firmness.

The 3 hour drive gave us a chance to get a feel for Kyrgyzstan. Nature rules here with wide plains, rolling hills and snowcapped mountains for miles on end. It reminds me of home (Canada) to some degree. I can see why it is such a hit with adventure travelers.

Today was last bell day. It is the last day of the school year for every student across the entire country of Kyrgyzstan. There were parties and smiling faces everywhere! Students dress up in special uniforms and wear a red sash that says ‘Graduate’ (in Kyrgyz I assume) across the front. I especially loved that little French maid outfits!

Our first stop was Burana tower, the ruin of a minaret. The partially collapsed tower, a few mausoleums and some scattered stone markers (known as balbals) are located in the middle of hectare after hectare of green farm land. In the 10^th Century CE, this was the center of the ancient Karakhanid city of Balasagun. Founded by the Soghdians, it was the same size as Bhukara (i.e. quite large). Changing trade patterns and several earthquakes caused the town to be abandoned. Over the centuries, much of the contruction materials were parasitized to build surrounding homesteads.

The tour company arranged for horse games to be staged especially for us. The traditional and ancient game of ulak Tartysh can best be described as goat football. It is rumoured to have started with nomadic herders playing with the body of a wolf that was killed after attacking a flock of sheep. The game began with the slaughter of a goat. The goal of the game was for each team to place the dismembered goat carcass on top of a mound at each end of a field. Riders grab the goat and try to get to the goal without getting tackled or having the goat stolen away. A bit gross but quite fun and definitely one of the highlights of the trip.

The rest of the show was somewhat tame by comparison. The riders tried to grab a small handkerchief from the ground. The exhibition ended with horseback wrestling.

Just before we arrived at a resort on Lake Issyk-Kul near Cholpon Ata, we stopped at the petroglyph park. The area consists of thousands of granite boulders dropped in place during the last ice age. The petroglyphs carved into these extremely *********es have worn and faded over the millennia. A German archeological team documented the art in the mid 20^th Century. They sprayed a coating over the rocks to help visualize the faint markings. Unfortunately, the coating has turned black and is starting to erode the rock surface.

We arrived at our hotel to find that we scored a lake view room on the 3^rd floor. It was a little cloudy but the southern mountains were absolutely stunning. It is clear to see why this area has been used as a get away location for centuries.